78. Balsamic Vinegar (Cont.)

By the 1990s the imitation rip-offs calling themselves "Balsamic Vinegar of Modena" had become so widespread that the Italian government passed legislation banning the use of the term balsamico and any reference to either Modena or Reggio for anything other than the traditional vinegar produced in the region. Of course, Italian laws can be enforced only in Italy, which has not stopped producers in other countries from continuing to turn out inferior products that are misleadingly labeled. But in Modena, the Consorteria di Aceto Balsamico Naturale," described as "an association of twelve hundred producers, master tasters, and devotees," keeps the faith by holding a competition each June in the town of Spilamberto, near Modena. There the producers of the region, who take great pride in their product, vie for the coveted Palio di San Giovanni Prize, awarded annually to the vinegar that the judges deem best from the twelve hundred or so entries submitted.

True balsamic vinegar has a syrupy, nearly caramel texture that offers the palette the delight of opposing tastes simultaneously. It fills the mouth with an explosion of flavor that lingers happily as a mild and pleasant aftertaste. Just a few drops of it can turn a drab salad into a culinary adventure.

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